Thanks again to Jack Monroe for the idea to make a vegan version of soda bread – this time from her article in The Guardian on storecupboard recipes. None of the ingredients need refrigeration. My niece is vegan and it’s always nice to bring something to a family tea that isn’t specifically vegan but that she will happily eat. This fits the bill perfectly as she used to love soda bread when she was a child.
250g flour (doesn’t have to be bread flour – I usually do a mix of 2/3 plain flour to 1/3 wholemeal or 8 grain flour)
extra flour for dusting
1 tsp salt
1 level tsp bicarbonate of soda
2 tsp lemon juice
180ml coconut milk (full fat for preference – but low fat would work if you add a bit of extra oil)
1 dessertspoon vegetable oil
Measure the flour, salt, and bicarb into a big mixing bowl. Combine them well so that the bicarb is thoroughly mixed into the flour.
In a jug, measure out the 180ml coconut milk and the lemon juice. Add a splash of oil if you’re using low fat coconut milk.
Make a well in the centre of the flour mixture, and pour in most of the coconut milk/lemon juice mixture, and stir quickly until it comes together into a dough. You may not need to add the final bit of liquid – it depends on the flour whether it absorbs all of it or not. Flour your worktop generously, rub a splash of oil on your hands to stop the dough sticking to your fingers, then tip out the dough and knead it gently for about a minute, then form it into a ball. Use some of the excess flour on the worktop to scatter on a baking tray, then place the dough on the tray. Score a cross on the top of your ball of dough, dust it with more flour, then put it in the oven (fan oven 160 degrees C) for about 40 minutes. When it’s done, you should be able to tap it on the bottom and it will sound hollow. Leave to cool for a bit before slicing.
NB this soda bread recipe can also be made using yogurt, sour cream, or buttermilk in place of the coconut milk. But then it wouldn’t be vegan.
Halloween happened, and hot on the heels of the spooky chili comes a spicy not quite pumpkin soup. Pumpkins sold for decoration really don’t have much flavour at all, so we use butternut squash instead (don’t waste the scrapings from your pumpkin though, they can all go in to add bulk and a nice colour, just don’t put in any seeds or stringy bits).
2 butternut squash
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
1 can reduced fat coconut milk
1 tablespoon Thai curry paste (yellow for a milder flavour, red or green if you’re going for hot-hot-hot)
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
500ml boiling water and one vegetable stock cube ( we like mushroom)
Salt and pepper to taste
Cut the squash in half lengthways and scoop out the seeds and stringy bits. Brush the cut sides with one tablespoon of the olive oil and put on a baking tray with the cut sides uppermost. Roast in a medium oven for about 40 minutes, or until the flesh is soft. Poke it with a knife to test.
Put the other tablespoon of oil in a large solid saucepan and soften the onions over a low heat for about 15 minutes. Don’t let them stick or go brown. Add the curry paste and paprika and stir it all about.
Meantime, scoop all the flesh from the squash and add it to the pan. Nigella Lawson maintains that you can eat the skin of roasted butternut squash but I’m not convinced. If you have any pumpkin scrapings, now is the time to add them. Pour over the coconut milk and the 500ml of boiling veg stock, give it all a stir and let it simmer for 20 minutes. Test the pumpkin flesh after this time to see if it’s softened. Take the pan off the heat if it’s all nice and soft, and blitz with a stick blender to a nice smooth consistency. If it feels a bit too solid, you can add more stock. Taste and add salt if needed, and several grinds of black pepper. Serve with croutons and a swirl of sour cream.
This soup is vegetarian (but do check the ingredients in your curry paste – some contain anchovy), and vegan if you leave out the sour cream.
A staple of our Halloween parties, and (whisper it quietly) also vegan. It’s completely inauthentic but very tasty.
3 red onions, chopped
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic
3 carrots, chopped
3 sweet potatoes, peeled and chopped
3 pointed peppers, deseeded and chopped
3 small red chilis, deseeded and chopped
2 tins chopped tomatoes
1x200g tin sweetcorn
2x400g tins red kidney beans
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
salt and pepper
juice of 1 lime
2 mushroom stock cubes dissolved in 500ml boiling water
3 tablespoons red lentils
50g dark chocolate
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan and add the onions. Sweat the onions gently until they are soft but not coloured. Add the crushed cloves of garlic and all the chopped vegetables, add the smoked paprika and stir it all around. Put a lid on the pan and leave the veg to simmer for about 20 minutes. Then add the chopped tomatoes, the stock, the sweetcorn and the red lentils and leave to simmer again for a further 20 minutes. Taste and see if it needs any more chili. Add the kidney beans and the dark chocolate, broken up into pieces. Simmer again for a further 20 minutes, this time with the lid off. Season with ground black pepper (you may not need salt depending on how salty the stock cubes are), and a squeeze of lime juice.
Are yellow split peas chana, or something else? I always thought chana meant chickpeas, so I’ve gone with the full English description, but I’m happy to be corrected. Having read several recipes for dal, I took inspiration from Madhur Jaffrey’s seminal work “Indian Cookery” for the techniques and then just used the spices and ingredients we had in the cupboard.
250g yellow split peas
1 litre water
1 tablespoon ghee (clarified butter), or neutral vegetable oil if you want it vegan
1 tablespoon garam masala
1 dessertspoon lazy chili
1 dessertspoon lazy garlic
1 dessertspoon lazy ginger
1 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds or cumin seeds
1 small onion or 2 banana shallots, cut in half and chopped into thin half-moon slices
Salt to taste
Rinse the split peas well in cold water, then put in a saucepan and cover with 1 litre of cold water. This will seem way too much, but you’ll be surprised at how much the peas absorb as they cook. I don’t put salt in the water as it sometimes makes the peas tough, and you want them to be mushy and creamy. Bring to the boil and simmer for about an hour on a low heat. If it looks like the water is all absorbed, add a bit more. Stir it occasionally and, if you’re feeling energetic, mush the split peas against the side of the pan as they break up.
Take the split peas off the heat and leave to one side. In a frying pan, heat up the ghee or oil and add the mustard or cumin seeds and move them about until they start to pop. Then turn down the heat a bit, and add all the other ingredients except the salt. Stir it all about and let the onions/shallots cook until they are soft and slightly catching at the edges. Add the split peas to the frying pan and stir through the onion/shallot mixture, until the mixture is bubbling. Add salt to taste. If it looks too dry and solid, add a couple of spoonfuls of boiling water. It should be a soothing, creamy, slightly sloppy mixture. Serve it hot.
This dal works as an accompaniment to other curry dishes, and if you use neutral vegetable oil it is vegan. It becomes a complete meal if you serve it with rice and a hard boiled egg. If you find you have some left over, it keeps well in the fridge for a few days in a covered container. You may need to add more water when you reheat it to get the creamy texture back.
A vegan cake I’ve been trying to get right – and this is pretty much OK, but it still looks really odd when you’re mixing the batter! Adding coconut flour means it soaks up way more moisture than if you were using just self raising flour.
200g caster sugar
175g self raising flour
100g coconut flour
1 heaped teaspoon baking powder
zest of 1 lemon
100g coconut oil, melted
1x 330ml can of ginger beer or lemonade
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Melt the coconut oil gently, and set aside to cool a little. Put all the dry ingredients in a big bowl with the lemon zest, and mix them thoroughly. Put the melted coconut oil, the ginger beer and the lemon juice in another bowl and whisk them together, briefly, so that there are still bubbles from the ginger beer in the mix. Add the liquid to the dry ingredients and mix them until it all comes together into a strangely fizzy and slightly grainy batter. If the batter looks a bit too dense, add a bit more water. Speed is of the essence here, as you’re using some of the fizz in the ginger beer as a raising agent. Put the cake batter into a greased 8 inch round cake tin. I use a silicone one for this recipe as it’s very easy to turn out. Bake in a fan oven at 175 degrees C for about 35 minutes, or until a skewer poked into the centre comes out clean. If it looks like it’s getting too brown round the edges, turn down the heat to 165 degrees and bake it for an extra 10 minutes.
Turn out the cake onto a cooling rack while you prepare the icing.
150g icing sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Mix together the icing sugar and lemon juice to make a runny icing. Poke the top of the cake with a skewer in several places, then carefully spoon half the icing over the cake. Most recipes will tell you to wait until the cake is cool before doing this, but if you do it while it’s still a bit warm, the icing will sink into the cake and make it much more moist and sticky.
When the cake has fully cooled, put it on a pretty serving plate and spoon the other half of the icing over it. You can get fancy now and make the icing drip down the sides.
So named by family friend Eric, who is renowned for his taciturnity. However, he got very animated about this piccalilli, and declared it to be bloody brilliant. High praise indeed, from a man of few words.
1kg mixed vegetables, washed and peeled as necessary. Essentials are cauliflower (white or romanesco), green beans, and shallots or small silverskin onions. The rest can be made up of sweetcorn, fresh peas, red peppers, courgettes, carrots, green tomatoes. The more colourful the mixture, the better.
50g fine salt
10g ground turmeric
10g English mustard powder
15g yellow mustard seeds
1 heaped teaspoon ground cumin
1 heaped teaspoon ground coriander
600ml cider vinegar
200g granulated sugar
The most time consuming part of making piccalilli is cutting up the vegetables. You need to make sure that the pieces are quite small and of an even size. Once you’ve got your kilo of chopped veg, put them in a large bowl and sprinkle over the salt. Mix it in well and leave the bowl, covered in a cloth, overnight. This will help to ensure that the vegetable pieces stay crunchy. The next day, rinse the veg in ice-cold water to get rid of the salt, and drain as much of the water off as you can. The veg need to be quite dry or the resulting sauce will be watery. Put the cornflour, turmeric, and all the other spices in a big jug and mix them to a smooth-ish paste with some of the vinegar. The rest of the vinegar goes into a large saucepan to be heated up with the sugar, until the sugar has dissolved. Bring the vinegar and sugar mixture to the boil, then pour some of it over the spice paste and mix it well, then pour the spice paste and vinegar mixture back into the pan and bring to the boil again. Keep stirring it until it thickens. This should take about five minutes. Take the pan off the heat, and then you’re ready to mix in the drained vegetables. Stir all the vegetables around until they are all coated with the spicy sauce, then pack them into sterilised jars, making sure there are no air pockets. Seal the jars with wax paper discs to cover, and acid-proof screw-on lids. This piccalilli can be eaten straight away but improves after about 4 weeks maturing in a dark cupboard. It’s excellent with cheese, cured meats, pork pies, roast beef, sandwiches, anything that benefits from a mustardy, crunchy hit. I have been known to eat it from the jar with a spoon. It’s also vegan, containing no animal products (but it tasts so good WITH animal products…!).
this is what it looks like before you leave it to stand overnight.
I can’t stand mixed peel in anything. There are far nicer ways of getting a sharp hit of citrus in food without those chewy, hard, waxy bits of “bacon rind”. Here’s our take on the sainted Delia’s mincemeat recipe, which is a lovely balance of sweet, sharp and fruity, without the mixed peel.
450g Bramley apples, peeled and grated (easiest way is to peel them then use a box grater on the side with the largest holes – no need to core them, just stop grating when you reach the cores). One big Bramley weighs about 250g.
200g shredded vegetable suet
150g soft apricots, chopped
100g dried cranberries
350g soft dark brown sugar
grated zest and juice of 2 oranges
grated zest and juice of 2 lemons
50g slivered almonds
4 teaspoons mixed spice
1 teaspoon cinnamon
half teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
6 tablespoons brandy
This makes just under 3kg of mincemeat (about 6 normal sized jamjars). Mix all of the ingredients together except for the brandy in a large ovenproof bowl. Cover the bowl with a clean cloth and leave it overnight.
Take off the cloth, stir the mixture well and cover it loosely with a piece of foil. Place the bowl in a very low oven (gas mark 1/4, 110 degrees C) for 3 hours, then take it out of the oven. As it cools, give the mixture a stir occasionally. When it’s completely cooled down, stir in the brandy and put into sterilised jars. Seal them well (wax discs and acid-proof lids, or parfait jars with rubber seals).
This keeps for a really long time in a dark, cool place. When you open it to use, if it’s looking a bit solid just mix in a bit more brandy.
This recipe is vegan if you use vegetarian suet. It makes absolutely no difference to the flavour whether you use ordinary suet or vegetarian suet as far as I can tell.
2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes
2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into small cubes
1 handful frozen peas
1 handful frozen green beans
1 head cavolo nero – a very dark green crinkly cabbage with long thin leaves (you can use spring cabbage but cavolo nero is much tastier)
1 onion, peeled and cut into small dice
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tin tomatoes, chopped
1 tin canellini beans
500ml stock (veg or mushroom)
100ml small pasta shapes (broken spaghetti, orzo, ditalini or small macaroni)
salt and black pepper
If you have a dried up old rind of hard cheese in the fridge, now is the time to put it to use!NB if you leave out the hard cheese and use pasta made without eggs, this soup is vegan. Parmesan is not suitable for vegetarians, but there are other hard cheeses which are.
Heat the oil in a large heavy based saucepan and add the onion and garlic. Stir it around and leave it to saute gently until the onion is translucent – high heat will burn the garlic and that never tastes good.
Add the cubed potato, carrot, green beans and peas and the tin of tomatoes. Add the 500ml hot stock and stir all the veg around. Now is the time to add your bit of hard cheese to the mixture. Bring to simmering point then leave it all to simmer for about 10 minutes or until the potatoes and carrots are almost soft. Add the drained canellini beans. Shred the cavolo nero finely. Put the pasta into a separate pan of salted boiling water and let it boil for 5 minutes, while you put the cavolo nero into the pan with the rest of the soup ingredients. Small pasta shapes don’t take long – check after 5-8 minutes to see if it’s done.
Season the soup with black pepper and salt if it needs it. Drain the pasta when it’s done and put a spoonful in the bottom of each soup bowl, then ladle the minestrone over the top of the pasta.
If you cook the pasta separately, it’s easier to save any leftover minestrone for another day so that you can add more freshly-cooked pasta. Leaving pasta in the soup mixture makes it go a bit sticky and flabby.
At least one of your five a day, and vegan too – no eggs, no added sugar, no added fat, just yummy.
250g chopped prunes
300 ml water
85 g plain flour
3 tsp baking powder
1 tsp ground mixed spice
85 g wholemeal plain flour
50 g ground almonds
400 g mixed dried fruits (currants, raisins, sultanas, apricots, cranberries, cherries – whatever you feel like)
100g chopped walnuts
80 ml orange juice
900g loaf tin
Preheat the oven to 170 degrees C or gas mark 3.
Line a loaf tin with baking parchment. Chop the prunes (you can do this in a food processor) and put in a pan with the water. Bring to the boil, remove from the heat and set aside.
Sieve the plain flour, baking powder and mixed spice into a large bowl. Add the wholemeal flour, mixed fruit, walnuts and ground almonds. Stir to combine. Stir in the wet prune mixture and the orange juice and mix well, and spoon the mixture into the loaf tin. Get it into the oven as quick as you can – the baking powder gets activated by the liquid so you need to act fast to keep all the bubbles in the mixture to make it nice and light. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean. Turn onto a wire rack and cool before slicing.
This could be used as a vegan version of a celebration or Christmas cake – it’s quite dense, and will take marzipan and icing quite well as it doesn’t rise much. However it won’t keep as long as a traditional fruit cake.
A totally veggie – or even vegan if you don’t serve it with the raita – super-quick recipe using mainly storecupboard ingredients for those days when you need something fast and full of flavour. Cheerfully ripped off from Jamie Oliver’s 15 minute meals – but with some changes for convenience (plus I never did like easy-cook rice…)
½ large cauliflower
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon garam masala
1 teaspoon very lazy ginger (or a thumb-sized piece of fresh ginger, grated)
1 teaspoon very lazy garlic (or 2 cloves of fresh garlic, crushed)
1 onion, grated, or chopped finely
1 teaspoon very lazy chili
1 bunch fresh coriander
1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes
1 x 400 g tin light coconut milk
1 x 400 g tin of chickpeas
1 x 227 g tin of pineapple chunks in juice
For The Rice
1 mug (300g) basmati rice
Remove the outer leaves from the cauliflower, then slice it 1cm thick and put it on a hot griddle pan, turning when lightly charred.
Put 1 mug of rice and 2 mugs of boiling water into a pan with the cloves, lemon half and a pinch of salt, put the lid on and cook on a low heat. Heat the oil in a large casserole pan and gently fry the finely chopped onion, ginger, garlic and chili for a few minutes until the onions start to go translucent. Add the garam masala and stir it round for a minute to heat up the spices before adding any of the wet ingredients.
Add the tin of tomatoes, the coconut milk, the drained chickpeas and the pineapple chunks and their juice. Add the griddled cauliflower, cover the pan and turn the heat up to high and bring to the boil. It should be ready when the rice is, but if the sauce is a bit sloppy then take the lid off and give it a couple of minutes at a fierce heat, stirring all the time to prevent it catching on the bottom of the pan. Squeeze the juice of the remaining half lemon into the curry and season to taste with salt and pepper if it needs it. Check that the rice is cooked through and drain it if there’s too much water in the pan. Scatter the torn coriander leaves over the curry and serve with the drained rice.
You can serve this with a quick “raita” of fat-free yogurt mixed with fresh chopped mint leaves, and poppadums, chapatis or naan if you want a bit more carb content with your tea.